Hiroshima

Posts about our time in Hiroshima

Hiroshima

Today we spent time in central Hiroshima starting in then around the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. There is a bit more in a previous post where I let the pictures speak for themselves. We were lucky to have a clear day for our visit, the park was busy but not too bad. We walked north through the Peace Park taking our time and I was moved to tears. History books, etc discuss about what happened here and the effect on the city. Some time ago I bumped into articles on how others in Japan discovered something was wrong, the Japanese Broadcasting Corporation (Now NHK) and the military found they had lost contact with assets in the city and their efforts to reestablish contact with them were failing. When both (separately) sent personnel to see what had happened they reported back the event. Also, one of our guide’s family is from Nagasaki and said their Grandmother survived the bombing there, she was blown out of her bed in a dorm. All this made it very relatable to me, and brought emotions out on this visit. Even writing this I tear up.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Lots of school children visiting
Lots of school children visiting
Hiroshima Victims Memorial Cenotaph
Hiroshima Victims Memorial Cenotaph. The names of those who died are encapsulated here.
Flame of Peace
Flame of Peace
The Atomic Bomb Dome
The Atomic Bomb Dome. This building was left as it was to show the damage to the city.
Clock Tower of Peace
Clock Tower of Peace
Hypocenter monument, the spot directly under the detonation.
Looking up at the Hypocenter Monument.
Looking up at the Hypocenter Monument. If you where standing here…

After the park we headed to Hiroshima Orizuru Tower, one of the few tall buildings around the park. Opened in 2016, it’s goal is the same as the park’s, promoting peace around the world. The setting at the top is serene and offer great views of the city overall. On the floor below the observation deck there is an interactive zone and stations where you make origami paper cranes and drop them in the Orizuru Wall, a glass panel wall that will eventually be filled up with these folded cranes.

The builders added a bit of whimsy for your decent from the tower if you wanted, you could take a slide to the 11th floor to the second floor. Of course we did it.

The Atomic Bomb Dome with Hiroshima Orizuru Tower
The Atomic Bomb Dome with Hiroshima Orizuru Tower (brown building) to the right.
The observation deck of Hiroshima Orizuru Tower
The observation deck of Hiroshima Orizuru Tower
The view from Hiroshima Orizuru Tower. The T bridge where the yellow bus is turning in the middle right was the aiming point for the bomb.
The results of our efforts at origami, obviously our talents lie elsewhere. I have done origami in the past, personally I blame the paper. 🙂
Getting ready to drop the cranes into the wall.
Looking down into the Orizuru Wall
Getting ready to slide down
Tah Dah!

For the afternoon/evening Inside Japan arranged for us to go on a “Best of Hiroshima Night Food Tour”. With our guide Ami we were joined by Pam and Kevin Rodman of Connecticut who were visiting Japan for a few weeks. We started off with some beers (and snacks) at Hiroshima Neighborly Brewing then Sake at Yamatoya Naka-machi. Ami also stopped at a vending machine on the walk where we got a local specialty, Momiji manjū, a confection made of buckwheat and rice cake shaped like a Japanese maple leaf.

Tom and Kim with Pam and Kevin Rodman
Ami showing us a vending machne that sells Momiji based sweets.
Ami showing us a vending machne that sells Momiji Manju.
Some beers at Hiroshima Neighborly Brewing
Some beers at Hiroshima Neighborly Brewing
Oyster vending machine
An oyster vending machine we saw along the walk.
Yamatoya Naka-machi
Sake at Yamatoya Naka-machi
A little bit happier now…

The real surprise came when we stopped at Okonomimura, a multi-story food hall that has multiple food stalls on each floor. You walked off the elevator and the sights, sounds and aromas hit you right away. We stopped by to try Okonomiyaki, a dish that originated in Hiroshima. I had never heard of this dish, Kim and Kevin had, being the primary cooks in our respective houses. It was a fantastic surprise for me.

We ended the tour with some Taiyaki from Naruto Taiyaki Honpo. Taiyaki is a fish-shaped cake usually filled with anko (a sweet red bean paste) however other fillings like like custard or sweet potato are sometimes used. This was a nice way to end our tour with fellow foodies. Pam and Keven were great company and we had nice conversations about many things. Diets for all of us upon returning home. We all benefitted from the guidance and patience from Ami who took good care of us and was patient with me as I lagged behind as usual. Thanks Ami!

Inside Okonomimura
One of the many stalls inside Okonomimura. All were busy.
Our Okonomiyaki being prepared
Okonomiyaki, it was large enough that each couple ordered one and split it. Fantastic meal!
Our guide Ami with our Taiyaki from Naruto Taiyaki Honpo.

South to Hiroshima

Our stay in Kyoto has wrapped, time to move to the southernmost point on this journey, Hiroshima. Located on the delta of the Ōta River, a large, flat area with many rivers and a large island-like peninsula, the city’s name has two components: 広 (hiro) meaning “wide” or “broad” and 島 (shima) meaning “island”. So Hiroshima means “broad island”.

Waiting for Nozomi 13 in Kyoto
Our travel luggage
Our travel luggage. We have made extensive use of the luggage forwarding services here, more on that in a later post.
Enroute on the Shinkansen
Enroute on the Shinkansen
Countryside near Aioi, Japan
Countryside near Aioi, Japan

In Japan, hotel check-in times are generally strict and rigorously enforced. Arriving in Hiroshima before noon we put our bags in a storage locker and headed to Miyajima Island, noted for Itsukushima Shrine and its floating O-Tori gate. This journey added a ferry to the modes of transport we have taken on this trip

Ferry to Miyajima Island
Ferry to Miyajima Island
Oyster beds in Hiroshima Bay
Oyster beds in Hiroshima Bay
Approaching Miyajima
Approaching Miyajima
The O-torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine
The O-torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine

Miyajima Island is home to Sika deer, considered sacred messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion. The are not shy and will approach you, at one time harming one was punishable by death.

Sika deer on Miyajima Island
The Sika deer on Miyajima Island are considered sacred messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion.
The beach near the Itsukushima Shrine
The beach near the Itsukushima Shrine
Walking to Itsukushima Shrine
Walking to Itsukushima Shrine

Being built overwater makes Itsukushima Shrine and its O-Tori gate unique. The elements of the temple are connected boardwalks making movement around the temple easy no matter what the tide level is. We were lucky and arrived at the temple just passed low tide giving us the opportunity to walk to the gate. Nice to be able to walk under the gate and see the temple from a different perspective. Tide levels move quickly here and it was quite obvious when the tide was rising.

Itsukushima Shrine
The entrance to Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine and the O-torii gate
Itsukushima Shrine and the O-torii gate
Sorihashi Bridge
Sorihashi Bridge
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine's torii gate
Itsukushima Shrine’s torii gate
O-Torii gate of Miyajima's Itsukushima Shrine
O-Torii gate of Miyajima’s Itsukushima Shrine
Under the gate
Under the gate
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine from near O-Tori gate just past low tide
O-Torii gate of Miyajima's Itsukushima Shrine
O-Torii gate of Miyajima’s Itsukushima Shrine
Shadow of the O-Torii gate
Shadow of the O-Torii gate

After a nice visit we headed back into the city via ferry and train.

Whatever Gets You thru the Night – John Lennon
Heading back to Hiroshima during the evening commute